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Variations affecting Straw Hat Style and Becomingness
Crown & Brim dimensions
The appearance of a straw hat is like the appearance of a felt hat with respect to style and appropriateness for the individual wearer, depends primarily on the width and flange of the brim in combination with the height and shape of the crown. Generally speaking, straw hats are preferred in somewhat larger dimensions than felt hats, no doubt, due to the fact that a straw-hat brim appears to be smaller than a felt hat brim of the same dimension. It is also partially preferred because the wider brim gives somewhat better protection from the sun’s rays.
Pre-shaped Crowns
Straw-hat crown shapes are “set” in the factory and are specified in accordance with demand. This eliminates from the selling operations and the process of hand creasing. Instead of shaping the crown himself, the salesman “fits faces” by carefully selecting from his stock those shapes most suitable for each customer.
Band Width
Most straw hats are now trimmed with a variety of band sizes (9L, 12L, 16L, 19L, etc.). They are interchangeable for hook on bands.
Texture & Weave
The appearance of the surface of the straw hat resulting from the type of material used and the way it is woven or braided is a major style variation and is likewise a major quality factor in straw hats. In the dressier straws such as Panamas and Milans, the best-looking and best quality hat is the one with the finest and most even weave.
Color and Interchangeable Bands
Popular straw-hat colors range from the traditional bleached whiteness of the un-dyed Shantung or Panama through various tans. The Milan straws come in a variety of colors; tan, black, gray, navy, brown, and others. In addition, an almost unlimited variety of high color effects are achieved through interchangeable hook-on bands in a multitude of patterns as well as solid colors. “Changing the band changes the hat” is true in the sense that the choice of band adapts the hat to the customer’s taste, complexion, and hair apparel. The color of a straw-hat band tends to be so striking that a hat of a color which might not be particularly good looking with a certain color suit can be made to harmonize with it by using a band color which goes well with the suit. For instance, natural by itself is not considered good with a gray suit, but blue is, and a blue band on a natural straw hat makes it seem quite smart with a gray suit. The changeable hook-on band also enables the customer to harmonize his straw hat with his tie or shirt. For this reason, more and more customers each year purchase extra hook-on bands with their straw hats. This practice is encouraged in the Miller Hats Store by the low prices of the bands and by the use of special display fixtures.
Quality
The quality of the material of which the straw hat is woven or braided is reflected in its appearance. Likewise, the quality of workmanship in producing evenness and uniformity of weave or braid strongly effects the appearance, as do the care and skill exercised in bleaching, dyeing, blocking, and finishing.
Inside Trimming
The neat appearance of the sweatband, tip sticker or pad, and the printing of the dyes enhance the over-all attractiveness of a straw hat.
Lightness & Ventilation
Straw hats are offered in various weights, and degrees of ventilation, ranging from the almost invisible ventilation of the genuine Panama and vent braid Milan to the obvious open-to-the-breezes weaves. The selection of the right straw hats to please a great many customers includes the various combinations of lightness and ventilation they desire.
Quality & Value Factors
The Raw Material & Human Skill
Just as felt hat quality is predetermined by the grades of fur used and the manner in which they are transformed into felt bodies, the quality of a straw hat is basically determined by the quality and uniformity of the fibers and the skill in which they are woven into body hats and plaited into braids. The vast majority of straw hats are woven or braided in far off lands, most of them entirely by hand. Thus, the quality of most straw hats depends essentially on human skill.
Bleaching & Dyeing
Bleaching and dyeing are important to the appearance and quality of the natural fiber hats. Those which are to be bleached to achieve maximum whiteness must be brought to a clear even tone. The higher quality hats and colors are dyed after bleaching removes variations in tone among the fibers and a maximum clearness and evenness in color is thus achieved. Hats of lesser quality are direct-dyed and any variations in tone between the fibers may show up in the finished hat. This subtle tone variation may, however, be regarded as a selling point for those men who might prefer the surface effect thus achieved.
Craftsmanship in the Factory
The care exercised in sewing braids into hats and in carrying out the various operations or blocking, flanging and finishing braid and body hats, combined with the manufacturer’s selection of braids and bodies in the first place are important quality factors.
Trimmings
Trimmings play a part in rounding out the value picture in straws although to a lesser degree than in felt hats. It will be noted that cushion-fit (reeded) leathers are used in better straws, as whipped leathers cannot be efficiently used in them. The cushion-fit leather (reeded sweatband) is a valuable selling point even though it is practically a necessity. Roan leathers of high quality are used in the higher quality straws. Synthetic leathers are sometimes used on certain straw hats since they are now obtainable in grades that give good wear to the customer’s satisfaction. The cost of obtaining various types of braids and woven bodies vary from year to year as conditions effecting their import change. When any particular type of straw hat becomes so costly due to it’s scarcity that it cannot be merchandised in the price stations for which Miller Hats considers it suitable, it is omitted from the line rather than being carried in higher prices or “overpriced” by Miller Hats’ standards. Likewise, a certain type of straw may be dropped from the Miller Hats line if it is replaceable by the availability of another type of straw hat of superior qualities.
Evolution of Panama Straw hats - read more
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